Before I learned to scrape an egg or cook dried pasta, I plucked dumplings under my mother’s watchful eye. In many Asian homes, making dumplings is a ritual, a meditation and often a family relationship with many generations. Homemade dumplings are one of the simplest foods to make, but they can intimidate even the most confident home cooks. And I understand the reluctance. With the constant onslaught of perfectly shaped dumplings on social media, we naturally question our ability to repeat these beautiful little pieces.
But I’m here to offer this cliched-yet-essential advice: When making dumplings, make the exercise perfect (or almost perfect). Your first attempts to form lumps can make you feel discouraged. They’ll probably be quite a bit ugly, maybe not Instagrammable yet. Put the phone down and keep going. Fold, shrink, fold and repeat. Again and again. I’ve been practicing for decades and yet, if I haven’t made it in a while, or if I don’t have the atmosphere, I can still dish up pretty dumplings. But the upside? Ugly dumplings, like imperfect vegetables, can still taste good – and these tips, which I wrote in my new book To Asia, with love, will help you get there:
1. Flavor the filling well
Whatever you choose for your filling, it tastes good. If it tastes pale before you put it in the packaging, it will be even tastier than a ball, because the packaging will slightly dampen the flavor. Depending on what your filling is, and if you do not want to taste it raw, you can perform a “spot test” and boil a tablespoon of filling to test the seasonings.
2. Then dry it
Make sure your filling is not too wet, as excessive moisture will increase the chance of breaking the cover. Remove as much liquid as possible from the vegetables before adding them to the mixture. For vegetables like spinach, kale or bok choy, blanch it first and then press it tightly with your hands. If you contain too much liquid, I recommend draining the entire mixture into a colander. Another trick I learned from my mom is to add a teaspoon of cornstarch or breadcrumbs to soak up the liquid.
3. Do not be afraid to experiment with fillings
I like to experiment with the dumpling fillings and try different vegetables and flavors that are not specifically Asian. Almost anything can be formed into a lump. For example, my “waste dumpling” without waste is filled with roasted vegetables, beans, herbs, spices and other foods found in my fridge stuffing.
This feathery filling contains peas, chives and ricotta (which helps to bind it together!).
4. Keep it together
Fillings that “fall apart” can make the folding of your ball even more difficult. Finely chop your filling ingredients or even put it quickly in the blender or food processor to make the mixture easier to handle. If you have a filling that feels too sparse, or will not hold it together (a simple trick is to press the filling into your hands to see if it stays together), add something that will “bind” it , such as mashed beans, mashed potatoes, or a soft, creamy cheese such as ricotta. This makes the filling easier to ‘hold’ when you fold it.
5. Less is more
Overfilling the dumplings can make the folding process cumbersome. If you are not making dumplings yet, less is more and will give you more control over your fold – start with 1 – 2 teaspoons of filling, and work your way up; once you are more comfortable with the process, you will be able to handle more filling, say about 1 tbsp.
Just 1 teaspoon!
6. Cover packages purchased in the store are the easiest option
Cloth packs in the store are the best option for everyday cooking. I keep packets of round dumplings in my freezer and put them in the fridge overnight to thaw before using. Shops bought in the store are incredibly versatile and can be used to make dumplings for steaming, cooking or for pot stickers.
Unlike homemade casings, it is do should be watered around the edges so that it sticks together when folded. The easiest way to do this is to have a small, tiny bowl of water nearby. Immerse the rim of the package in the water and wrap the cover in the water with both hands until wet.
7. But homemade packaging is easier than you think
The most basic and versatile homemade dumplings consist of just flour and water, making them incredibly panty-friendly. Dough with just boiled water is malleable and requires minimal rest. It is easy to roll out into thin casings, which are best for pot stickers, frying and steaming (rather than cooking). One of the best things about hot water dough is that you can work with it straight from the fridge, which is good if you want to make your dough beforehand.