Welcome to Year in Eater 2020, Eater’s annual ritual of tributes over the past 12 months. In the last days of 2020, Eater NY will be asking questions about the New York restaurant scene over the past year, with answers from food writers, photographers, chefs, restaurants, entrepreneurs, and even some local lawmakers who have helped support the industry through this. very difficult year. Now we ask: What was the saddest restaurant closure in 2020?
Eric Adams, Borough President of Brooklyn: There is too much to count.
Clay Williams, food photographer and co-founder of Black food people: Honestly, I tried not to keep track of the continuous list of closures, it’s too awful. But just hearing the month of The 21 Club, Blue Smoke and Franklin Park, it was pretty awful. They all have special places in my personal history as dinner and to cover the industry. It’s hard to imagine this city if they were not there, or who would possibly take their places.
Kat Kinsman, senior editor, Food & Wine: Every closure was painful, because whether it was a place you visit or not, it means the loss of livelihood for so many invisible people with nowhere to go. On a personal level, Gotham and Blue Smoke have been a fundamental place in my now long term as a NYC eater, and I have had some strong issues. As a collective tragedy – so many Chinatown restaurants. They live history, they are culture, they are a community, and they have been overwhelmed by a deadly combination of economics and xenophobia. It’s deeply disappointing, and I’m so grateful to Grace Young for everything she’s doing with the #savechineserestaurants movement to raise awareness of the humanity behind the meals that many of us take for granted.
Jennifer Tam, co-founder of non-profit organization Welcome to Chinatown: Hop Shing was a devastating, unexpected hit for Chinatown. They have been serving generations of Chinese American families since 1973. A visit to Hop Shing was like traveling back in the early days; I would be surrounded by Chinese newspapers, teacups and small plates of dim sum, and older elderly people catching up with friends.
Carlina Rivera, NYC Board member: I’m really sad about Rosario’s closure in Stanton Street. I grew up in the street from there, and I can not tell you how many memories I have of getting a piece with friends there at 3am after a long night. You would be sitting by the window and everyone passing by would clearly agree that you were doing exactly the right thing at that moment.
Priya Krishna, food writer and author of the best-selling cookbook Indian-like: Glady’s. I have since they moved here, their slushies and jerks, and the menu has been so well translated to take away. I will miss it so much.
Emma Orlow, author of the New York Times, Bon Appétit en Eater: Ugh, so hard to pick just one. They are all incredibly devastating, especially knowing that it can be prevented if the government actually cares about saving small businesses and their employees. Tamra Teahouse’s closing was definitely sad.
Fabián von Hauske Valtierra, chef and co-owner of Contra and Wildair: Uncle Boons.
Brad Hoylman, New York state senator: Probably something that also strikes me is the story of the young restaurateur who moved here from Colorado to pursue her dream by opening the Banty Rooster in Greenwich Avenue and then having to close because her landlord would not renegotiate the rent. her sales are not declining. It’s just cold, heartless greed. She’s back to Colorado, but I hope she gives NYC another chance.
Lucas Sin, Chef at Junzi Kombuis and Good day: The closure of the 52-year-old Chinese-Cuban restaurant La Caridad 78 was particularly difficult to hear. As a Chino Latino emblem of the confluence of Chinese food, it has had a major impact on my thinking about how food and culture develop in New York City.
Connie Chung, chef and co-owner of Milu: Too many to mention. I think Gotham Bar and Grill is sad because it was so iconic and an important aspect of the NY restaurant scene. Every time a restaurant closes for so long, it’s very sad. On a more personal note, Dub Pies in Brooklyn. It was earlier our visit to the prospect Park coffee or Milo. But not anymore.
Kim Pham, co-founder, Omsom: I know it’s not a restaurant, but I was devastated when Pegu Club closed. One of the first proper cocktails I ever fell in love with when I moved to the city, and it was a tragedy for the community. Speaking of restaurants, it broke my heart to see west bourne up close. Their team was constantly thinking about what it means to be through and for the community, and they did a really nice job and threw in some of the tastiest entrees I’ve had in a long time.
Erika Chou, co-owner of restaurants including Wayla and Kimika: Gaia’s Italian Café. Gaia’s was a super local place I always went to for lunch in the block where I opened my first restaurant (Yunnan Kitchen) almost ten years ago. It was such a definite restaurant in NY, under the radar and quirky, so delicious, affordable, and run by a very strong woman who can not speak, who knows her mind and her food. Unique places like this make the New York dining room what it is. Gaia, please open again!
Gary He, food writer and photographer, author of Astrolabe newsletter: Yu Li (Tang Hotpot, The Tang) reached out to me in February about taking photos for his new location in the East Village, Doma. We should have probably shot 30 dishes, some of which would be added to the menu in the coming months. Li looks so excited to expand. I walked by the other day and saw ‘For Rent’ signs in front of the building and it absolutely bothered me.
Melissa McCart, editor of Verhit and former editor of Eater NY: Mermaid Inn, Jewel Bako, Uncle Boons. So, so much.
Alan Sytsma, editor, Grubstraat: I do not think any closure was as difficult to take as the realization that every hatch was just part of the city’s total loss. Yes, I will miss some places more than others, but I think it’s going to take a lot longer to shake up the long-term effects of the year.
Note: Some answers have been edited for clarity and brevity.