A Sherpa team achieved one of the most coveted achievements in mountaineering: the first winter climb of K2, the second highest mountain in the world, and the only one of the 14 peaks of more than 8,000 meters in the world that has never been in the winter season has not been climbed.
Ten Sherpas, including Nirmal Purja, a former member of the special forces of Gurkha and the United Kingdom who had previously climbed 14 peaks of 8,000 meters in just over six months, estimated K2 in Pakistan on Saturday. They left their high camp at 01:00 for their top attempt via the Abruzzi Spur in temperatures as cold as -40C, but with low winds and in bright sunshine.
K2 was first climbed 66 years ago by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli; there were six previous attempts in the winter on the mountain, none of which were successful.
In the world of climbing at high altitudes, dominated for so long by Western climbers and expeditions who relied on Sherpas to help them, the ascent – and by such a large team – is an extraordinary achievement for the Nepalese mountaineer.
The team finally reached the top at 17:00 local time and waited until they were all together before singing the Nepalese national anthem and descending.
K2 was the last 8,000m peak awaiting a winter climb after Nanga Parbat climbed in 2016. Winter climbs of the very highest mountains in the world are extremely rare, and the technical and weather challenges on K2 have definite efforts from some of the world’s strongest Himalayan climbers.
In a statement from the summit, Purja said: ‘What a journey. I am humble to say that as a team we have summed up the amazing K2 in extreme winter conditions.
“We have committed ourselves to make the impossible possible and it is an honor to be able to share this moment, not only with the Nepalese climbing community, but also with communities around the world.
‘Mother nature always has greater things to say and stands on the crest, evidence of the sheer power of her limbs. We are proud to have been a part of history for mankind and to show that cooperation, teamwork and a positive spirit can push. limits to what we feel is possible. ”
A winter climb of the K611 meter K2 was considered by many people as an impossible task due to the inclement weather conditions. Efforts with K2 are usually made in July or August during the hottest periods – and only 280 people reached its peak compared to 3,681 who reached the summit of Everest. Climbers have been interested in K2 in winter since the mid-1980s, not long after the first winter climb of Everest.
Before the successful climb on Saturday, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, one of the top team, emphasized the importance of the Sherpa community to make the first winter climb. “For all the other 8,000 residents gathered in the winter, no Sherpa was with them. This is an opportunity for Sherpa to show their strength,” he said.
‘Apart from alpinists, all the climbers take help from Sherpa to fulfill their dreams of 8,000 meter peaks. I have helped several foreign climbers to get to the top of various 8000 clients. I was a little surprised to see no Sherpa during the first climb in the winter. So this climb is for all the Sherpa community that is so famous because of our friends and clients from different foreign countries. ”
The team used a short weather window on the mountain, notorious for the heavy wind that hit it especially during the winter months, to climb to a high camp at 7,350 meters, from where they launched their summit effort.
The rise was quickly hailed as a historic achievement. “It’s done,” tweeted the Karakoram Club, an online community celebrating the area in the Himalayas where K2 is located. “The history books have been rewritten.”
Mountaineer Steve Razzetti tweeted: ‘Mountain history is made while I post it. The Sherpa climbing team is above the bottleneck and is on its way to the summit in perfect winter conditions. ”
Alan Arnette, who has long described the Himlalayan ascents, put the climb in American climbing magazine Rock and Ice in a historical perspective.
‘That a Sherpa and Nepalese team should belong to this latest holy grail of mountaineering is a clear sign that the scale of mountaineering is changing at great heights.
‘Since Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal made the first climb of Annapurna in 1950, and became the first person to stand on the crest of an 8,000-meter peak at the top of the world, the climb of the 14 highest mountains in the world an imperialist and colonialist enterprise.
“The Sherpa was the backbone of the business – portering supplies, setting up camp, fixing ropes – but did not reap any of the honor or benefits.”
When the news of the successful summit came to light, it was also reported that a Spanish climber had died on the mountain.