New York – “No hay elegance is possible without perfume”, says Gabrielle Chanel, creator of the iconic Chanel Nº5, which this year celebrates its centenary, a question of what was declared unconditional Marilyn Monroe and how high is the actress Francesa Marion Cotillard.
When the protagonist of “Los caballeros las prefieren rubias”, match to the question of a periodical about which used to sleep, Marilyn Monroe with a piquant gesture contested: “Unas gotas de Chanel Nº 5”. A partir de ahí, el perfume, created by Ernest Beaux in 1921, passed to the mythical category for more reasons than his composition.
That’s why we’ve been converted into the first perfume to enter a museum -form part of the Museum of Contemporary Art of New York (MOMA) – much to the genius of its creator.
Cristina de Catalina, director of development at the Academy of Perfume Foundation, defined Coco Chanel as “a visionary creator and audacious who revolutionized his era”, within the cycle of virtual conferences organized by the Academy of Perfume on mythical characters of history perfume.
Adelantada para su epoca
Gabrielle Chanel solía decir “no hay elegance posible sin parfuum. It is the perfect accessory that is not, that is not olvida, the most important ”.
Rocío Capel, Director of Training at Chanel Iberia, stated that the French designer was the first female designer to create her own perfume, and that she also qualified as a “visionary, who considers that perfume can express itself in style” and that supo interpret the fashion to work through, an “insolite” project for the era.
Connoisseur al perfumista de los zares, Ernest Beaux, en 1920, y lo acabó acaparando para la “maison” francesa, la mejor manera de mantener la exclusivad de la formula, como luego continuo haciendo con las otras “narices” que han creaa los aromas of the company like Henri Robert, Jacques Polge -which more fragile have created for the house- or the last to incorporate, his hij Olivier.
Chanel has some very clear directors for the creation of Nº5, as it will not be precise in its time, that it will take temporary and abstract notes, that it will not always be in trend, even if it has a “huge” creative freedom in perfumery, that in water currently investigating with the aldehydes, facilitators of aroma durability.
“A perfume that Nadie hubiera hecho has the moment”, is the maximum, Corelbora Capel, an aroma with multiple facets and contradictions, a perfume that smells and seduces to the woman.
Fresh and no ornaments
A different essence, with exceptional prime materials, with, different from the epoch of a floral note, a floral bouquet that includes more than 80 ingredients, presented in a phrase, necklace, ornaments, laboratory cases and incorporated in its source a hilo of pearl lacrado, “to avoid evaporating its fragrance”.
The name of this centenary perfume keeps some mystery. One has to explain -explains Capel- with the hecho of that Ernest Beaux the proposed various series in the designer, all with a number, and it because the decision was made by the Nº5, although it was actually “desconoce” if there was more the taste or support in other factors.
“El cinco era el de la suerte de Gabrielle Chanel”, ha assegurado Capel. Relationships with its astrological sign, the fifth of the zodiac, with the five dedos of the man, with the five points of a star, also with the five good of happiness, the five cents, the five caves -only now six- .
A superstition that lifts to parades, his collection always sali the fifth, at the level of one of the houses of his house where Lucia has a crystal lamp in which the institution translates the “C” of the logo, the G of his number and the number five.
Seun cinco, a la fecha
Casually, almost now, he has been following the reinterpretations of Nº5 and since the beginning of this year, the 20th century, he has five.
Coco Chanel always argues that with this number being the pomposity of the numbers of the perfumes of that era, it was also easy to record, not necessary to be translated and “its important residence in its interior”.
Without embarrassment, to be able to trust in its potential, Chanel -an advanced also in this aspect- did not use the publicity for promotion and she was the protagonist of a campaign, in 1937, in the American magazine Harpper’s Bazaar in United States , the place where the first triumphant, reflecting a sophisticated image of a female gender of the same name.
Nicole Kidman, the best
But if there is a detached campaign for Rocío Capel it is the protagonist by Nicole Kidman, directed by Baz Luhrmann (Moulin Rouge) who includes the three pillars of the company: high costume design, joys and perfumes.
“A picture of unity, seduction and audacity”, agrees with Chanel’s spirit, for a perfume that “has transcended time and modes without becoming fascinated”, Capel concludes.