Best islands in the Philippines? What to see and do in Batanes

A group of islands in the northernmost region of the Philippines are so remote that they are actually closer to Taiwan than to most parts of the Philippines.

The islands are located 100 kilometers north of Luzon, the country’s largest and most populous island and home to the capital Manila. Yet they could go no further from the stereotypical tropical scene of swaying palms and white sandy beaches associated with the Philippine archipelago.

Imagine windswept emerald hills dotted with cattle, quaint stone cities with flowery paths, craggy cliffs descending into a deep sea of ​​clashing waves with white points and lighthouses that stand strong and strong, like the locals.

This is Batanes – a fascinating and magical place that feels more like the setting of the historical drama “Outlander” than the “The Beach”.

Batanes is made up of three main islands – Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat – which sit between the North Pacific and the South China Sea.

It is also on the Circum-Pacific Belt, better known as the Ring of Fire, and prone to frequent earthquakes, one that damaged the island of Itbayat in July 2019.

Here the country is forged by the elements and in many respects also the people.

There is a mysterious atmosphere that envelops the indigenous people of Batanes, the Ivatans. Due to the isolation, the challenging climate and the difficult landscape, the locals have built a society that values ​​trust and real connection.

Unlike the noisy and charming chaotic countryside of the Philippines, which can feel more like karaoke bars than an idyllic paradise, Batanes and its people are quiet, pensive, orderly and peaceful. The Ivatane are warm and sincere and seek honest interaction with visitors who want to learn more about their culture.

The Ivatane live in symbiosis with nature and take care of their natural heritage with an almost spiritual zeal. They recognize the country as the source of their well-being and well-being and are determined on sustainability.

The best example is the absence of markets in the province; agricultural practices are designed to produce just enough food for the population, with very little surplus.

Here the Christian faith and spirituality permeate everyday life. The word “Dius” or God is used in many expressions: “Dius mamajes!” – of God will repay you is their way of saying thank you; “God forbid!” – may God go with you are they goodbye; or simply “Dius?” to ask if anyone is home. Once there, visitors will usually see “Dius mavidin!” or May God be with you, so welcome their guests.

Unlike most parts of the Philippines, Batanes is sparsely populated.

The 2015 census counted only 17,246 people, which equates to about 205 people per square mile.

Strict measures have been put in place to prevent foreign tourism, such as limiting the number of flights to the islands. The area is also subject to the Responsible Tourism Act in Batanes, whereby the Philippine government declared the province in 2016 a “responsible, community-based cultural heritage and ecotourism zone”.

As a result, travelers can expect to find accommodations and small inns rather than branded hotels.

A business truly stands out.

The former residence of the late artist Pacita Abad, Fundacion Pacita, is a charming bed and breakfast perched on top of a lush grassy slope overlooking the sea.

Built in a traditional stone way, coupled with whitewashed adobe walls, it is uniquely decorated in colorful tiles, redesigned furniture and Abad’s vibrant artwork.

Her cousin, Patsy, who can often be found walking the premises with a cheerful smile and a glass of wine, now runs the inn. She recently opened the fantastic Café du Tukon, which serves delicious contemporary interpretations of local delicacies, such as a carbonara pasta covered with salted dolphin fish called arayu., rather than bacon or guanciale.

Batan is the main island of Batanes. Due to turbulent waters and unpredictable weather, it can be difficult to cross between the islands of Batanes. Fortunately, Batan has a lot to offer and is easily accessible via commercial flights.

It is essential to work with an accredited tour agency, such as IBS Tours and Travels, before organizing a trip. The agency can coordinate a car and guide to move on the breathtaking highway along the island.

Agencies can also stop at notable sites such as the iconic Basco Lighthouse and Tayid Lighthouse, the sloping hills of Rakuh a Payaman and the colorful waters of the Homoron Blue Lagoon.

It is also worth stopping by small, tranquil villages such as Mahatao and Ivana, known for their churches and Spanish bridges, as well as Diura, home to the Mataw caste of mystical fishermen.

Weather permitting, Sabtang Island can be reached in 40 minutes by ferry. The breathtaking views from the cliffs of Chamantad Tiñan are worthwhile, as well as the stone village of Chavayan where they make vacancy, which are traditional headdresses of stripped palm leaves that protect female field workers from the elements.

The only real way to get there is to fly. Flights can range from 80 to 100 minutes, and can be booked before the pandemic at Skyjet, Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines.

A trip to Batanes must be planned in advance and booked by accredited tour operators. The local government is very much focused on sustainable tourism and the preservation of the natural and cultural heritage of the province. There are a number of rules and guidelines – such as no bikinis on the beach – that tourists should understand and adhere to during the trip.

While the Philippines is currently closed to international tourism, officials last month showed interest in establishing ‘international travel bubbles’, or travel routes with strict health protocols, with neighboring countries.

Batanes, which registered its third Covid-19 case in December 2020, is currently even closed to domestic tourists. Local authorities are investigating ways to safely reopen with 14-day quarantines and impose other health requirements.

Batanes’ ‘good season’ lasts from November to May. June to October is a typhoon season and should be avoided. Travelers are advised to bring a light rain jacket for spontaneous downpours and a light sweater for cool nights that can be found on top of the cold mountain peaks.